LES NOTES DE DÉGUSTATIONS DE ROBERT PARKER

David Schildknecht travaille avec Robert Parker, il a chroniqué et noté douze de nos cuvées pour notre premier millésime, 2008.

Retrouvez l’ensemble de l’article sur le site web:
http://www.erobertparker.com

Et ci-dessous sa présentation et l’article pour chacune des cuvées:

Quebecois Patrick Piuze has followed a repeatedly-traveled path, having struck out on his own after working as cellarmaster for Brocard (and before that he worked for Olivier Leflaive, followed by Verget). Tasting his 2008s offers striking reminders of just how much unrealized potential there is in
Chablis, when one considers the number of very recent start-ups (granted, the bulk market for 2008s was a buyer’s); that the twelve wines I tasted here constitute only a bit over half of Piuze’s portfolio; and above all in view of the high quality he has achieved in his inaugural vintage. Piuze follows as
well a by now familiar micro-negociant formula that is “micro” in matters of management even if not
in terms of total production: he exercises whatever he feels are the necessary controls to insure that the fruit he purchases can fulfill his ideals of style and terroir character, which involve fermentation exclusively in steel or cement vessels and maturation in tank and previously-used, often large-format barrels. Class distinctions here are quite subtle, with a seamless transition from some startlingly fine village-level wines through the crus. (For the record, the 2008 bottlings I did not taste are: Petit
Chablis and the crus Butteaux, Foret; Montmains, Montee de Tonnerre, Vaillons, Bougros,
Grenouilles, Valmur, and Vaudesir!) Various importers, including: Aliane Wines, La Jolla, CA; tel.
(858) 361-4529 and David Bowler Wine, New York, NY; (212) 807-1680

2008 Patrick Piuze Chablis Blanchots

Rating: 92

Piuze’s 2008 Chablis Blanchots smells of ocean breeze, fresh lime, as well as fusil, smoky emanations as if from crushed chalk. Pronouncedly mineral on the palate, it at the same time exhibits a succulence of grapefruit and white peach that goes beyond the other wines in its collection. A slightly lactic note dissipated after the bottle had been open for a few hours. And while
this might not finish with real succulence, it offers a startlingly pungent and piquant burst of fresh lime, cherry, peach, cherry pit, and tenaciously persistent maritime mineral character. A real essence
of Kimmeridgian terroir, I would not be surprised to see this prove worth following for a decade.

2008 Patrick Piuze Chablis Bougros Cote de Bouqueyreaux:

Rating: 91

The Piuze 2008 Chablis Bougros Cote de Bouqueyreaux (employing the longest-available spelling of that site name!) is another of his bottles that’s mineral from stem to stern. Brine, oyster shell, and iodine as well as suggestions of kelp and beach detritus render this reminiscent of the corresponding “Terroir de Courgis” bottling except with more richness and vividness of flavor. And here, too, there is an impression of consuming the oyster’s liqueur, so vivid that I wonder if you would be able to tell
where the oyster’s delectable bathwater leaves off and the sip of wine begins. A tactile, invigorating persistence of lemon oil and myriad mineral impingements persists implacably; yet, sheer saliva inducement keeps the wine from seeming hard. This ought to be utterly fascinating to follow over the next 6-8 years if not longer.

2008 Patrick Piuze Chablis Fourchaume

Rating: 88

Piuze’s 2008 Chablis Fourchaume does not escape the frequent fate of bottlings from this large cru to prove slightly less interesting than their legal equals. Alkaline, wet-stone character runs from the
nose to the tail of this bottling both fuller (showing 13.5% alcohol on its label) yet at the same time more austere than its fellows. Notes of mothball, cherry pit, grapefruit, and the bite of citrus pip impinge on a concentrated, lasting, but not especially clear or refreshing finish. I’d revisit this in a year and then see whether it seems to merit following further.

2008 Patrick Piuze Chablis les Clos

Rating: 90

Drink 2010 - 2017

Piuze’s 2008 Chablis Les Clos adds chicken and herb stock to the oyster-like, maritime, and fusil family of scents and flavors found in so many of his Chablis. And as with so many of these as well, there is a certain austerity to the overall aspect. A resinous hint of wood prevents the finish from
exhibiting quite the purity and juicy persistence that accrues to the best Piuze 2008s, but it’s clearly early days for this bottling and it should be followed for at least 5-7 years with some reasonable expectation of improvement.

2008 Patrick Piuze Chablis les Preuses

Rating: 91

Drink 2010 - 2017

The handsomely lean Piuze 2008 Chablis Les Preuses might boast less richness or exoticism than is often displayed by the wines of this cru, but is nonetheless a complex wine, if one whose appeal will probably vary considerably by taster. Musk, lemon, and fusil oils in the nose mingle with hints of resin and spice from toasted oak, all of which are joined on the palate by a maritime range of saline, alkaline, and kelp-like elements. A lactic note dissipated over time. This penetrating, fascinating Chablis will probably need another year to knit and should be worth following for 5-7.

2008 Patrick Piuze Chablis Mont de Milieu

Rating: 91

Drink 2010 - 2016

Salt, lemon, and faintly smoky, slightly reductive struck flint notes on the nose of Piuze’s 2008 Chablis Mont de Milieu lead into a bright, saliva-inducing if slightly austerely firm and high-acid palate that finishes with invigorating persistence incorporating a reverberative interaction of salt,
chalk, iodine, cherry pit, lemon, and raw almond. This bottling really epitomizes the Piuze style in its vintage: firm, full of flavor, rapier, and refreshing. As with its fellow premier crus I would tentatively expect it to be worth following for half a dozen years.

2008 Patrick Piuze Chablis Terroir de Chablis

Rating: 90

Drink 2010 - 2014

The Piuze 2008 Chablis Terroir de Chablis makes a good case not only for its young vigneron’s talents, but also for the special qualities that can accrue to those wines of its appellation that grow in the eponymous village itself. Scents of lemon, tangerine, and grapefruit presage an exuberantly and
colorfully citric palate tinged with salt, crushed stone, and iodine as well as suffused with that subtly sweet scallop-like savor one seldom encounters in wine from any other place. Persistently bright yet less lean than its villages-level siblings in this collection, this finishes with irresistible length and
saliva inducement. Expect it to perform brilliantly for at least 3-4 years.

2008 Patrick Piuze Chablis Terroir de Chichee

Rating: 88

A Piuze 2008 Chablis Terroir de Chichee is both scented and flavored with brightly fresh lemon and lime tinged with iodine, cherry pit, and crushed stone on a sharply-focused, penetrating, invigorating, if somewhat spare palate. (The above descriptors repeat themselves especially often in my accountsof wines from this collection.) Carefully-paired, this should serve well at table over the next couple of years.

2008 Patrick Piuze Chablis Terroir de Courgis

Rating: 90

Drink 2010 - 2014

Sea breeze, kelp, iodine, and algae comprise the mysterious, village-typical nose of Patrick Piuze’s 2008 Chablis Terroir de Courgis. Its firm, lemony-bright palate adds overt oyster-shell chalkiness and
crushed stone to the aforementioned maritime mix. The palate viscosity here, when combined with the unusual range of elusive flavors, makes for an experience almost like consuming the oyster itself
and its savory liqueur. This should prove utterly fascinating to employ at table over the next 3-4 years, though I grant that is bound not to be everybody’s oyster ? or rather, Chablis.

2008 Patrick Piuze Chablis Terroir de Fleys

Rating: 89

Piuze’s 2008 Chablis Terroir de Fleys smells penetratingly and strikingly of toasted walnut, hazelnut, rhubarb, and lemon. Piquant nuttiness, tartness, and a broth-like sense of herbal suffusion all follow on a brightly citric palate, leading to a fusil oil, salt, and chalk-tinged finish of almost resin-like
cling. While a tad austere in personality, this should prove impressively versatile over at least the next couple of years and quite possibly beyond.

2008 Patrick Piuze Chablis Vaillons les Minots

Rating: 90

Drink 2010 - 2016

Piuze’s 2008 Chablis Vaillons Les Minots smells of lime, grapefruit, and pistachio; with hints of fusil oil. Grapefruit rind and fusil elements permeate a full but firm palate whose flavors of orange and grapefruit zest, fruit pit, and crushed stone grip with tactile tingle and tenacity, if a certain sense of
austerity. As this opens, a mouthwatering sense of salinity gathers strength. Look for fascinating satisfaction for at least the next half dozen years.

2008 Patrick Piuze Chablis Vaucoupin

Rating: 91

Drink 2010 - 2016

Lemon, grapefruit, and fresh apple in the nose of the Piuze 2008 Chablis Vaucoupin follow on a firm, bright, stone-, salt-, and iodine-suffused palate. Like most of the wines in the present collection, this possesses a handsome leanness and invigorating if almost glaring brightness. At the same time,
suggestions of sweet, savory, saline scallop signal a sort of umami-richness that is not only distinctive to Chablis but perfectly complements the transparent flow of juicy fresh fruit. This should be worth following for half a dozen years and perhaps longer. There being no track record for wines
under his own label, I don’t want to claim prescience about Piuze’s Chablis.